São Miguel: Fog, Fire, and Tea
São Miguel arrived after Pico, which meant arriving after something — after the volcanic desolation of Faial's ash fields, after Jeff's quiet reckoning with his…
Pico: Standing on Ancestral Soil
Pico was the reason we went to the Azores. Our friend Jeff had grown up with stories of the volcanic island his great-grandfather had left…
Faial: From Green to Ash at the Edge of the Atlantic
I had imagined the Azores as something like Hawaii — tropical, volcanic, Portuguese. I was wrong about the first part. We had come from Lisbon,…
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