Paris Notre-Dame: What the Fire Revealed
I have stood inside Notre-Dame three times, and each time it has been a different building. The first time I stood inside the cathedral was…
The Eiffel Tower: What the City Rejected, Then Claimed
We had been here before, Aaron and I, in a different Paris — before the fence, before the glass walls, before the security lines. That…
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Northwestern Europe: Football, Four Countries, Carry-On Only
As the 2018 FIFA World Cup quarterfinals played out, of the teams that progressed — England, France, Belgium, Croatia — we were packing for a…
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Paris, Left Bank
The first morning in Paris, jet lag woke us at four. Rather than lie there fighting it, we dressed in the dark and took the…