Tulum: At the Edge of the Maya Coast
A walled Maya port city on a Caribbean cliff — read structure by structure, through a spatial designer's eye. Tulum rewards the visitor who moves slowly.
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Hagia Sophia: On Buildings That Belong to More Than One World
My camera battery died the morning we visited. I have no photographs from inside the Hagia Sophia. What I have instead is the memory of…
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Istanbul: Two Continents, Three Days, One Rug
What felt like a week was only three days. Istanbul does that — compresses time and expands it simultaneously, leaving you certain you have barely…
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The Loire Valley: Châteaux, River Towns, and Three Nights at Artigny
I had researched the Loire Valley châteaux for two separate high school French essays before I ever stood in front of one. We left Paris…
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Chartres: Sound, Stone, and the Gothic Cathedral Interior
As a student of architecture, I had studied Chartres Cathedral in the way you study canonical buildings before you've seen them — through plans, sections,…
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Paris, Left Bank
The first morning in Paris, jet lag woke us at four. Rather than lie there fighting it, we dressed in the dark and took the…