Why I Travel
The places most people only read about turn out to be exactly what they promised — and also something else entirely. Notre-Dame in Paris, the…
Buenos Aires: La Vida Es Buena
Buenos Aires doesn't ease you in. It absorbs you, neighborhood by neighborhood, until one morning you realize you've stopped looking at a map. We arrived…
La Nit de Sant Joan: Fire, Catalan Pride, and a Sleepless Night in Girona
From the shallow Juliet balcony of our apartment in old Girona, rhythmic drums rose from the plaza below. Then horns. A crowd assembled. We had…
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Paris, Left Bank
The first morning in Paris, jet lag woke us at four. Rather than lie there fighting it, we dressed in the dark and took the…