Asado in the Tigre Delta
Before we left for Argentina, I had said it out loud: I wish I knew someone so we could experience a real asado. The universe,…
Before we left for Argentina, I had said it out loud: I wish I knew someone so we could experience a real asado. The universe,…
The American South carries a history that shouldn't be forgotten. It happened. We can't erase it. What we can do is preserve the beauty it…
Continue reading → The American South: Three States, Three Campuses, One Tornado
The Space Needle was never meant to last. Built in 110 days for the 1962 World's Fair — a fair whose theme was Century 21, meaning…
Continue reading → The Space Needle: What Was Gained, What Was Lost
Light streams between a forest of spiral stone columns. Each one twists upward, branching into a delicate web of ribbed groin vaults overhead — the…
Continue reading → La Lonja de la Seda: Valencia’s Temple of Trade
In 1791, a French-born engineer handed the new American republic a plan for its capital that it has spent two centuries trying to live up…
From the shallow Juliet balcony of our apartment in old Girona, rhythmic drums rose from the plaza below. Then horns. A crowd assembled. We had…
Continue reading → La Nit de Sant Joan: Fire, Catalan Pride, and a Sleepless Night in Girona
In Italy, the morning doesn't begin with coffee. It begins at the bar. The dapper barista steamed the milk with precision, poured the creamy froth…
Continue reading → The Italian Bar: How a Country Drinks Coffee
He wore a collared SS Lazio shirt tucked beneath his round belly, a sweatband on his wrist, and three pairs of glasses stacked on his…
There are four pasta dishes that belong specifically to Rome, and to nowhere else in Italy. Each one tells you exactly where you are. Their…
Continue reading → The Roman Pastas: Four Dishes, One City, No Substitutes
Vatican City contains the greatest concentration of human artistic achievement on earth. It also contains, on any given morning, thirty thousand other people who know…