Paris Notre-Dame: What the Fire Revealed
I have stood inside Notre-Dame three times, and each time it has been a different building. The first time I stood inside Notre-Dame was October…
Why I Travel
The places most people only read about turn out to be exactly what they promised — and also something else entirely. Notre-Dame in Paris, the…
Faial: From Green to Ash at the Edge of the Atlantic
I had imagined the Azores as something like Hawaii — tropical, volcanic, Portuguese. I was wrong about the first part. We had come from Lisbon,…
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Belgium: The Country That Contains Two Countries
Belgium is the size of Maryland and contains within it two countries that do not particularly like each other. To the north, Flanders: Dutch-speaking, economically…
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The Asado: What the Fire Requires
In Argentina, an asado is not a barbecue. It is a social event that happens to involve fire. The name comes from the Spanish verb asar —…
Asado in the Tigre Delta
Before we left for Argentina, I had said it out loud: I wish I knew someone so we could experience a real asado. The universe,…
La Nit de Sant Joan: Fire, Catalan Pride, and a Sleepless Night in Girona
From the shallow Juliet balcony of our apartment in old Girona, rhythmic drums rose from the plaza below. Then horns. A crowd assembled. We had…
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Travel Guide: How Florence Inspires a Higher Standard and ‘Slow Tourism’
Stunning architecture and sculpted masterpieces, natural regional food and wine—Florence is sure to delight your perspective alongside your tastebuds. No wonder it's such a popular…
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The Italian Bar: How a Country Drinks Coffee
In Italy, the morning doesn't begin with coffee. It begins at the bar. The dapper barista steamed the milk with precision, poured the creamy froth…
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What the Romans Eat for Pizza
He wore a collared SS Lazio shirt tucked beneath his round belly, a sweatband on his wrist, and three pairs of glasses stacked on his…